Alan Payling has a look at Tiverton Pannier Market, an ideal stop-off for drivers on the way back from the West Country or a potential full-day destination from resorts in east, south and north Devon
Variety is the spice of life, especially when you’re taking the same people away to the same places on a regular basis. While passengers may well be happy with the same coach operator, the same driver, the same resorts and the same hotels, who hasn’t heard the comment that people would like to visit somewhere different when they’re out and about on excursions or when they’re travelling to and from resort? 
I was looking at one operator’s brochure for 2019 to see how often they’ll be heading to Torquay and Paignton in the coming year. The good people of south Yorkshire who book holidays with just this one company will be heading west on no fewer than 57 occasions – if all those tours run, that is. And before you ask, I’m not talking about Shearings or National Holidays either. [wlm_nonmember][…]
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With volumes of regular business like that coming from other parts of the UK like south Wales, it’s no surprise that the search is always on for somewhere new to take a group. Well, now there is a new kid, or market, on the west country’s block that might interest a few people: Tiverton Pannier Market.
It’s not actually a ‘new’ market, per se – it’s been there for a good few years. Only since 740AD that is. But, because the locals have recently provided a couple of conveniently situated designated coach parking bays, coach parties can now more easily (and as far as the Tivertonians are concerned and hoping, more frequently) visit this attractive mid-Devon town.
The other good news is that, while the two bays have to be booked in advance, they are free of charge. The local Tourist Information Centre (TIC) told me that the council was thinking of charging coaches. I told the TIC that such a step would be a really bad idea for Tiverton. In other words then readers, use it or lose it.
Tiverton
So, as the place has not been on the tour driver map, where is Tiverton and who might go there? It may ring a few bells when I remind readers that it is not far from J27 M5 where the exit signs give Tiverton second billing to Barnstaple and the north Devon link road, the A361. A short drive after turning off the M5, however, and drivers are heading into the mid-Devon town itself. My best guess therefore is that Tiverton would suit coach traffic travelling from all points west that is heading home but that has some time to kill – or that just wants to make the most of the last day of a tour.
Given the town’s proximity to the motorway and the chance people will have to eat and shop in the market and surrounding shops, my feeling is that people will return to their coach with a big smile on their faces while saying: “I enjoyed that. That was different. Why haven’t we been here before, driver?” I know, you can’t win can you? But never mind, they’re happy, which on the way home is always a bonus – you hope so anyway!
Of course, being about 40 miles from places like Torbay and Exmouth, for those who are looking for a new and different day out, Tiverton and its market won’t disappoint and is easily doable.
Those planning such a day out could scoot up the motorway but then on the way back, take a slow drive back down the A396, the scenic Exe valley road, to Exeter. Along that road are places like Bickleigh Mill and Bernaville Nurseries just off the A396 on the A377. Such places would appeal and offer a pleasant location for a late lunch or afternoon tea and a bit more shopping to add a bit of variety to the day out.
Bickleigh Mill is situated in a charming spot in an old mill which adds to the character of the place. Bernaville is more modern but having larger catering facilities is less likely to have any problems serving a larger group. Of the two eating areas at Bernaville, as the name suggests, the Lily Pond Cafe is particularly nice.
Also worth considering while in Tiverton is the inclusion of a trip on the horse drawn canal barge on the Grand Western Canal. The Tiverton Canal Company is based at the canal basin in the south of the town and a more relaxing way of enjoying mid-Devon’s peaceful countryside would be harder to find.
For a bit of grand local history, the National Trust property Knighthayes is just three miles from the town centre. This Victorian Gothic masterpiece was built for Sir John Heathcoat Amory, the grandson of John Heathcoat, creator of the mechanised bobbin lace making machine and owner of a lace factory in Tiverton.
Just by way of comparison, the popular Tavistock Pannier Market which attracts a lot of coach parties from Torbay is 47 miles away via Plymouth or 41 miles via Moretonhampstead, but reaching Tiverton is perhaps an easier drive up the M5.
Book in
Due to there being only two coach bays available in the town centre, booking in is essential. With a parking space booked via the local TIC or the market manager, drivers are advised to head first for Tiverton’s bus station in Phoenix Lane to drop off. It’s a short, easy and level walk from there to the pannier market. Coach drivers are allowed 10 minutes to then pick up their passengers – but please note, this is not a coach park.
Drivers could of course drop off their passengers when they get to their parking bay in William Street. It depends which place drivers think will be easiest for passengers to remember; William Street or the bus station. My guess is the latter. Wherever drivers drop off, the TIC or the market manager can also arrange for a meet and greet service to be available. This would be helpful for drivers visiting for the first time.
There are two further coach parking bays available in the car park for the Grand Western Country Canal and Country Park, which is run by Devon County Council. This is the same location for coach parties visiting the Tiverton Canal Company – see below. This is a much easier location for coaches to access than the town centre’s bays.
However, parking charges apply and if the canal company is busy with coach parties – like, more than one – someone might not be happy. But there is a bit of spare space so at a push, three coaches should not be a problem. The location is the same as listed below for the Tiverton Canal Company. A local driver also told me that drivers can park free of charge behind the local branch of Morrisons where there is a small trading estate.
The Pannier Market
Like the many markets throughout this part of the world, the origin of the name derives from the traditional age-old practice of traders arriving in town with their goods in panniers over their shoulders or across the back of a horse, laying them down on the ground, and then selling their wares. It should therefore now be called something like White Van Market or Transit Van Market.
However, the tradition of small traders selling goods they have made, grown themselves or sourced locally is very much on offer here. While there are different sorts of markets during the week, the day that I suspect that homeward bound traffic would mainly head here, on Friday, there will be a varied and interesting selection of stalls to meander and browse round in the general market.
Also, on every fourth Friday in the month there will be an on-site farmers’ market in addition to the regular stalls. For an included excursion, then head back up the M5 on Tuesday for those here on a five-day tour or on Saturdays for those running a weekender to Torbay, Sidmouth or Exmouth.
Opening times
The market is open six days a week, but as mentioned above, the nature of the market varies. The traditional market days take place on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday. So for the passenger looking for some fresh local food to take home, on market days they will have a fair selection to choose from in the Food Hall. I’m not sure if many drivers will be happy if their passengers decide to buy some fish from the fishmonger – not to mention the rest of the group – but it will be fresh in Tiverton. Hopefully, the coach won’t be going far, and the passengers won’t leave their fish behind.
However, everyone will also have time to buy a late gift from the local handmade arts and crafts stalls.
On a good day, with up to 60 stalls to choose from, this market is well worth a visit. Like the Farmers’ Market, the market manager is pro-active in organising events in the market precinct such as Punch and Judy shows which livens up the environment.
Also, situated in the Food Hall is an upright piano which visitors are invited and very welcome to play. Sing song anyone? The market is also open on Mondays for second-hands goods and on Wednesday and Thursday for a mini market. There is also a cafe in the market complex as well as toilets.
The town
Tiverton has become something of a commuter community in recent years with residents travelling to work in places like Exeter and Taunton. As a result, the town is a fairly prosperous place and the centre has managed to avoid being hollowed out by retail closures. There are a few ‘to let’ signs on display but overall, the shopping centre retains a healthy bustle with retail footfall actually showing a slight increase.
But the market is the real star here and serves as the hub around which the rest of the town centre revolves. Market days which draw in shoppers from a wide rural catchment area makes the town a lively and enjoyable destination. It’s well worth a visit and will provide an answer to that perennial question: “Are we going somewhere new, driver?” 
